8th May - Resting in Bari
We are a little later today and as we approach the Basilica it seems busy than normal - of course it is the Viking Saturn is in town! - it's guides and hordes are going about their frantic sightseeing as the Mass progesses. A few of the tour participants breakaway from the line behind the guides - the look on their faces seem to suggest that they feel this might be a time to show respect for faithful attending the mass.
We sit in the back as the mass proceeds - the tour guides continue the shepherding of their flocks.
We smile as a women answers her phone in church - at least mass was finished.
We wander outside - though we haven't seen much evidence of it we are told that a lot of Russian pilgrims visit Bari during the feast of St Nicholas - we see a lady hold up a sign in Russian - we assume it is for the Russian pilgrims here for the feast.
Down by the water we go - the market stalls continue to trade - suddenly there are explosions that get our attention - ah - the picture of St Nicholas is being sent out to sea to return later in the day - the fireworks that accompany him are loud and, for daylight, spectacular.
Into their old town again to show Bernie mercantile square - we sit by the lions statue and watch the people.
Back through the narrow back streets of the old town.
We pause to watch a local haul up her shopping basket from the ground to her third floor apartment.
We pause again - a young mother hands her phone to her four year old - he holds it up - she positions herself and poses next to a wall mounted icon - "ora" says she - the four year old takes her picture!
Into the Basilica square - the tour guides are still plying their trade.
Our accommodations are perfectly placed to allow us to slip in and out to rest between our jaunts in the old town - though it is only mid-morning we decide to take the opportunity gather our thoughts - we get back to be greeted by the cleaner - she has taken our washing and arranged on drying rack - lots of thank-you's from us and lots of smiles from her.
We nap a while - we relax
We rise for lunch - we find ourselves at Piazza de St Nicholas again - we share an antipasto plate - it is large - it is too much for two and much too much for one - we are pleased with our decision to share - we are even more pleased to find that a dipping sauce of hot honey spiced with a touch of balsamic vinegar raises the Palma ham and local cheeses to another level - the food in Bari has been a delight!
Bernie heads back to our accommodations. I wander - an ATM in case we need cash - through the back streets of the old town again.
Ah - there is the Patata Shop - it specializes in everything potato - it joins the kebab shop in Istanbul in the interesting use of english spelling - the kebab shop sold "wunderfol" salmon and "testi" kebabs - the "patata" shop sells potatoes products.
The guides from the Viking Saturn are still out and about - their flocks still follow behind but clearly with depleted enthusiasm.
Small groups of pilgrims make their way amongst the crowds - some with yellow scarfs and yellow back packs with walking poles adorned with feathers - others with simple red scarfs.
As I wander I am amazed at the parking ability of these old town Italians - they park millimeters from bollards but even this does not save them from having there sides scrapped as their fellow motorists try to squeeze by.
Back home to collect Bernie for our afternoon G&T.
Bari has been a delight
We sit with our g&t's
Suddenly there is excitement - the church bells ring and ring and ring - white smoke has emerged from the Vatican chimney - a new pope has been elected - a women rushes past - "papa - papa" she cries - the bells ring and the bells ring some more!
Bernie is excited - this is a memory for her holiday - "I will remember this for the rest of my life" says she - the spoil-sport responds - "well you will not have to remember for all that long!"
We watch the locals a little more - they share their old city with their visitors with generosity and good will - they carry on their daily activities almost oblivious of the visitors - their children play in the narrow laneways on their bicycles weaving in and out amongst the visiting hordes - they tear along on their scooters tooting to clear their path - they manipulate their cars into impossible parking positions.
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