18th Catania
I wander out - it is approaching lunch - sounds echo across the narrow lanes - lanes turned into chasms by the old apartment blocks that line them - accents bounce from wall to wall - mostly Italian - some British - some American - the Italian loud and expessive - the others soft and reserved
Into the umbrella zone - the restaurants are just setting up to capture their fill of tourist and locals alike - their sprukers are already at work - "Wanna a beer mate?" - I am a little surprised that my origins are so obvious - maybe it is the hat!
The music is starting up and the Juice Squeezer is ringing his bell while lining up his oranges - his patrons queue for his fresh juice.
An English tourist rounds the corner - "Ah look at that!" says she as she reaches for her phone to photograph the canopy of colorful umbrellas over the narrow dining lane.
The umbrellas? - a solution of sorts to the unsavory toilet behaviors of the pigeons! - While the Pigeons rule the roost in Catania they well behaved and have established themselves as "part of the place".
The restaurants and bars increasingly pump out rhythmic Italian music - the locals sway in time openly and extravagantly - the tourist? - some completely resist - some cannot fully control themselves and give the occasional sway while others become full blown Italians.
There are Trinket stalls and wandering trinket salespeople - there are photographers everywhere using their phones to record their memories of their time in Piazza Duomo.
Everyone happy? - Yep - plenty of smiling - plenty of excitement - very few worried expressions - everyone seems happy to be here!
I watch as an Accordion player wanders through a restaurant stopping to entertain the people most of who have turned their chairs so they can watch the activity in the square.
It is approaching midday. The cathedral bell rings - no one pays any attention - then the bells boom - some turn to photograph the bell tower - then the bells go mad! - a cacofany of sounds - people pause - what is going on? - soon it is over - they don't decide an answer to their question and simply continue their wanderings and chatting and enjoying - couples wander - singles wander - small groups wander - the larger guided groups appear - there is scooter and bike and dog - there are the stylish and the casual - the casual overwhelm the stylish.
I wander back past the umbrellas - another spruker smiles and shakes my hand "you come back" said he.
I wander back to a sleeping Bernie - I join her
I wake in time to listen to the Italian gp - Max is good - Oscar did well enough - Max is a great!
It is 5:00pm - we head for a drink
Bitsifitt!
We sit in the community library square - what are we drinking ? - if you don't know then this is the first post you have read
"There is the old nonna again:- photograph her" says Bernie - too late she has moved on - perhaps she owns all the pubs in the area - everyone knows her!
Musical Italian voices fill the air as Bernie enters the little shop at the end of the square - she hope she might find something for Bo!! - she is successful but will Bo appreciate it?
On to explore another drinking hole.
We find the "Heaven Kitchen and Bar" - a distinct Israeli looking spruker - a Moroccan owner - a Hindi waiter - a delightful environment - a menu that causes considerable delay in choice - too many attractive choices - we go for a caprisi salad - local fries - a local catanese pasta and a pistachio pizza.
We chat with the spruker - I suggest a lasso for potential clients - he smiles - he has a cousin in Canberra.
We drink local wines - Bernie can't decide! - well actually she can decide! - A Russo Etna wine! - but white or red?
The food arrives - the pistachio pizza? - I understand why it has not spread from Siscily to the rest of the world!
We wander on - there are people in their prime - there are people past their prime - there are people like us! - there are young men and young women who are yet to realize they are past their prime! - "don't give up yet" thinks I.
A gelato to cleanse the palate - "a lovely night" says Bernie.
As we head back to the Blue Lion we admire the aging and slightly unloved architectureb of Catania.
We smile - it is garbage night - a garbage bag has been lowered to the street from the top story apartment.
We have loved Catania - we have enjoyed the people and the architecture.
We ready ourselves for bed - suddenly the fireworks go off - they are celebrating our visit and anticipating our departure for Syracuse tomorrow morning - we acknowledge them from our balcony at the Blue Lion!
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