11th May - A drive in the country

May 11, 2025

It has been a night to remember - to remember that lasagna may not be a good choice for a cafe meal!

I recover - at least I think so! - we risk breakfast - all goes well.

We decide we should really go into at least one of the churches in Lecce - we chose Basilica di Santa Croce right next to our accommodations.

We decide to drive from Lecce along the seaside to Otranto and back in the hope of seeing some of Puglia that is not immediately on the tourist route.

We head out of Lecce towards San Catalo - the road straight - the terrain flat - the countryside lush.

We turn south along the seaside in the general direction of Otranto.

We see derelict olive trees - some left to shoot - some suffering the consequences of the liberal application of saw and axe.

I consult ChatGTP

The derelict trees you saw around Lecce are likely olive trees affected by Xylella fastidiosa, a devastating bacterial pathogen.

This disease has been spreading through the Puglia region (where Lecce is located) for over a decade, causing massive die-offs of olive trees, which are a cornerstone of the local economy and landscape.

Key signs you might have noticed are Bare branches and stunted growth, No foliage, or just a few struggling leaves and a rapid decline in previously healthy groves

This bacterium clogs the water transport systems in the tree, effectively starving it from the inside out.

Unfortunately, there is no known cure, making it a significant environmental and economic challenge for the region.

We pause in San Foto - "The Weather is glorious" says Bernie - she is right!

We step out of the car and walk out beside the small inlet beach. It is delightful - the water clear - we watch the locals taking their first swims of the year - we watch our step - the Puglians are not inclined to follow up after their dogs.

As we sit sipping our Americanos the usual loud lilting Italian voices are not apparent - perhaps they are quieter on a Sunday morning!

We wander through the local market and then move on towards Torre dell'Orso

As we progress we are struck - the roadsides are in need of mowing - the whole area is in need of some love and attention. It has excellent bones but is in need of some finess - some love - some attention - some dressing up - the area reminds Bernie of the better parts of Morocco.

As we progress we pass beach resorts, pleasant beaches which are home to a sea of umbrellas - we pass more beach fronts that are unkempt

We move on - we wonder - where is the love? - Nice houses that show signs of disinterest - have all the Italian painters moved to Australia and taken their lawn mowing friends with them?

We share the road surface with lots of motorbikes - their riders all watanabe Valentino Rossi's

We reach Torre dell'Orso - it is nicer - neater - more commercialized - it's resorts are plentiful but it's environs still too unkempt for my liking.

Onwards towards Otranto - the Italian Drivers excellent! - the Italian roads good! - the olive trees plentiful - the asparagus plantings regular.

As we approach Otranto clubs and resorts become common and the environs become less unkempt - farm properties have extensive stone fences abutting their entrances and bordering their new olive plantings.

We enter the town - it is neat enough but clearly responsibility for the maintenance of it's verges and roundabout centres had not been accepted by anybody or any entity.

We drive around the town then head out towards Martano - Olives and more olives - large areas of dead olives, untilled paddocks and new plantings

Back to Lecce - the car put back in bed and we retire for a nap.

We rise again to drinks at Miro - we chat with an English single lady - then dine at the Miro on Orecchiette alla Cime del Rapa - a local dish of pasta and turnip tops! - lemonchello - tiramisu - spumone.